http://www.leefarmer.co.uk en-gb leefarmer.co.uk 2009-7-23T00:00:00Z leefarmer.co.uk http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#45427 With Ian Callum and Steve we all trucked up to Glencoe and stayed in a bunkhouse in Onich. With ice climbing in Scotland you are always at the whim of the weather and the subsequent snow conditions. Our first and what was to be our last venture out was as the last dispatch up to SCNL and this time we split the team Callum and Ian trying the straight forward Dorsal Arete Grade II and myself and Steve SC Gully Grade III. Each team went their respective separate ways and Steve and I disappeared into the gllom of the gully. We solo climbed as far as we could jamming our axes into the hard packed snow like daggers. Slowly the snow rib wed been climbing steepened and I got to a point where I decided we had to rope up. On a small rocky flat area we assembley the two ropes and Steve set up a belay climb when ready he shouted as a shower of old ice and gruapnel showered down on us. Off I went and entered a bottleneck of rock the snow infront of me getting steeper and steeeper. I snow ... 2009-7-23T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#36932 As many friends and followers will know I was working for Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions for all of December and some of January. During this time I met many great people whilst Iwas based down at Patriot Hills in Antarctica. I was busy lecturing and guiding clients to the South Pole. I maanged to get to the Pole three times and each time was exciting and I saw something different there every time there is the American AmundsenScott scientific base there which we were shown around. I did manage to practice my telemark skiing around Patriot Hills and was please to have the opportunity. Since getting back to the UK I have been getting back into climbing with regular indoor sessions on the climbing wall both in Newbury and Swindon. As all climbers will know after having a lay off from climbing the arm and finger strength goes quick quickly and Im in the process of building that back up. Ive managed a few 6as on the wall and hope to be up to 6b by Easter. Theres been almost ... 2009-2-14T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#30021 Again I got to Sheepstor early. Though soon enough came Andy our assessor and Phil and Sam the other two candidates. Sheepstor I a fairly small tor compared to some on Dartmoor. Though it has an strange amost vertical face on one side. Odd as most tors have been weathered round by time and weather over the millenia. Andy briefed us. We were to set up releasable abseils and also later to lead climb setting up a tope rope belay to bring up the second. I clipped myself into a safety rope I had set up so I didnt have to worry about falling over the edge. I set up my abseil system using three bomber natural anchors then proceeded to set up the safety rope and the abseil rope. Sam who had led a route was to be my victim and he lowered himself down until he got something caught in his belay device. I locked off the safety rope and put slack into the abseil rope. He freed himself and I locked the rope back off and continued to lower with the safety rope whilst he went down the absei... 2008-9-21T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#30016 After driving down late last night I arrived at The Dewerstone car park about one hour earlier than the 9.00am meet. This gave me a chance to sort out my rack of climbing hardwear and quickly reread some information in a few books. Just before 9.00 am a white MPV pulled into the car park it was Andy Holborn our MIA instructor who was going to assess us the candidates for today and tomorrow. There ended up being three of us for assessment I was joing by Sam and Phil. Passing the SPA assessment would mean that we were fully qualified to supervise individuals and groups on rock climbing routes described as single pitch in any guide book. It didnt qualify us to lead on multi pitch nor to give instruction in the use of climbing hardwear for example. It was an improtant qualification for me to gain as it is the perfect compliment to the Mountain Leader ML award. We made our way to The Dewerstone through beautiful beach forests which surround the river Plym. It is a really nice plac... 2008-9-20T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#30014 With fellow Newbury Mountain Club member Matrin Joyce. We left Newbury with the intention of accomplishing three things today. 1 Practice for me for my upcoming SPA assessment as this is a Single Pitch crag 2 Try and lead the low in grade VSs on the crag face and 3 Martin to have his first taste of outdoor rock. We left my house in good time and with expert navigation from Martin arrived at Plump Hill. Theres an easy place to park and it is so close from the crag that when on the top of routes the car can be seen. We disembarked from the car and walked across sodden grass to a tricky muddy path which sloped steeply down into the quarry. Avoiding nettles and brambles down the path we made it to the bottom of the quarry. It is a small place with really only one rock face. A steep angled slab containing friable rock but good natural and man made anchors above and a safe area below at the foot of the crag. We set up and I led Dusty Springfield VS 4b the first route on the left han... 2008-9-14T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#29052 Debating whether to go out climbing today based on the overcast sky and drizzle. We decided to go for it and our drive along the M4 took us not to the usual Wintours Leap in the Wye Valley but to Wynd Cliffe. Wynd Cliffe is virtually oppostie Wintours Leap and each venue can be seen from one another. We parked in the Upper Car Park and got the gear out of the car in a muddy and wet car park. It didnt look great for climbing but as we were here we thought we may as well have a look at the crag. Descending the 365 steps a winding stepped path through the woods which wouldnt look out of place in The Lord of the Rings we found the path to the Left Hand Crag of Wynd Cliffe. Again the directions to the crag wouldnt look out of place in a Tolkien novel at a bend in the path turn off by a tree with three trunks next to a Yew tree and mossy boulders that could have been anywhere but as luck would have it we ended up of the right path. Cautiously winding our way through moss covered b... 2008-8-31T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#28429 On Friday I left Newbury early to get to Betws y Coed in North Wales. Upon arrival the area was windy but bathed in sunshine. The start of a good weekend potentially. Because I was on my own for the Friday I went to the Marin Trail to do some mountain biking. The Marin Trail is situated just out of Betws y Coed near to Trefrw. From the car park there was a long climb up fire track which seemed to go on forever. Having a full suspension bike doesnt make these ascents easy. Finally there was a blue makrer post pointing to single track. The nature of the Marin trail seems to be alot of ascent on fire track and slightly contrived single track. Which is enjoyable but not long enough. Some sections of single track were very rocky but straight forward. I ended up on a descent on fire track over taking four other bikers. This was high up above Swallow Falls. This showed how long the Marin trail was and it seemed in places to go on forever. There was a tight uphill corner and as... 2008-8-16T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#27277 With Steve Smith from PMC. I headed for North Wales this weekend. Typically it rained in Capel Curig as we looked out of the Pinnacle Cafe window. Betws y Coed was no different a bit of sun and plenty of the wet stuff. So we decided to try a crag lower in altitude than those in the Ogwen Valley and Llanberis Pass hoping that a lower more sheltered crag would miss the weather. We ended up at the Moelwyns on Clogwyn yr Oen. It had been raining and now was showery with some sun. The rock was wet in places and dark smears covered parts of the slabs. There was also alot of quartz in the rock and when wet is very slippery. We intended to climb Kirkuss Climb Direct SVD but another group asked us where it was and proceeded to gear up beneath the climb. We werent to bothered as there is plenty of routes to be had on Clogwyn yr Oen. We opted for Slick VD which is about fifteen metres from Kirkuss Climb. Steve led the first pitch and soon shouted down to me that hed wis... 2008-7-21T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#25624 Its been a week since Ive been back from Nepal. Ive been busy with TV radio and newspapers. All due to my successful summitting of Everest. I have been overwhelmed by the interest my Live Everest Dispatches have made. I hope to put them all on a separate page on the website before long. I havent done any training since Ive been back but Callum Ings NMC and I managed to get a days climbing in this week as the forested crag called the Dewerstone in South West Devon. Id climbed there before and we managed to do the following routes Caesars Nose S Pinnacle Chimney VD and Mucky Gully VD. All seemed high in the grades and we certainly appreciated climbing on granite is a wee bit different to the limestone were used to in the Wye Valley and down at Swanage. Holds were good but protection had to be hunted for though when found was generally solid. With some much physical hardship being in the Himalayas for three months I need to put some hours in back down the climbing wall. This wil... 2008-6-16T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#20980 My blog ends here and I will be sending regular dispatches via the Everest dispatch link. To follow the dispatches please go to my home page where you will see a Challenge Everest dispatch link. Click it to subscribe via emails to free dispatches. 2008-3-7T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#20979 I decided to try and get some miles in. So I chose the 70 mile long distance path called the Wayfarers Walk which stretches the entire lenght of the county of Hampshire. Nicola dropped me off in Portsmouth and whilst I didnt start at the true beginning at the marina in Emsworth I started at Portdown above Portsmouth. With a 17 kilo pack I made good progress on this first day covering around 22 miles. I bivvied in a coppice for the night then at dawn on the 4th March I continued. This second day saw me covering the countryside up to Dummer near the M3 and crossing over the motorway to Deane. I finally arrived at Watership Down above Kingslcere in the early evening where Nicola picked me up. This second day was about 24 miles long. So in two days I covered 56 miles. This was good training for carrying a pack over distance. 2008-3-3T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#20464 The training weekend tied in nicely with Newbury Mountain Clubs Lake District weekend away. Andy Miles and myself decided to do a multi pitch rock climbing route on Dow Crag. We were staying in Borrow Club hut near Copper Mines high above Coniston and Dow Crag isnt far away. Early on Saturday we walked from the hut to the crag which took about 1.30 hours. I was carrying alot of climbing hardware Andy the ropes my pack weighing around 20 kilos. The weather was poor hill fog and patchy rain the crags wet and slippery. So we opted to attempt Giants Crawl on B Buttress a difficult graded route. We didnt bother with rock shoes rather too wet for them instead we climbed in our walking boots. The route involves seven pitches and we alternated leading on these pitches. It was difficult going because of the conditions slippery wet and cold. Running water on the rock seemed to be in every decent hand hold and soon our hands were numb with the cold. Each pitch seemed to ... 2008-2-25T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#19282 Today Nicola and I did the Pen Y Fan circuit which I am getting to know rather well. We included Fan Y Big so all in all just over 10 miles today. Significantly I carried a 17 kilo pack and we cleared Corn Du and Pen Y Fan in 50 minutes from the car not stopping until descent the other side of Pen Y Fan. The pack weight combined with the gusting winds made the circuit a good work out and I felt pretty strong until the last big ascent where I had to dig deep in the energy reserves and push through the fatigue. It was a good trainining session and Nicola was very strong on the mountain. 2008-1-26T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#19167 I drove up to Dolgellau in South Snowdonia to meet my chums of Newbury Mountain Club. Andy Miles had organised the first club weekend of the year and sourced a very nice bunkhouse in the middle of the town. I left Newbury at 5.30am and arrived a little after 9.00am. We all hit the hill and despite the wet weather went up Cadair Idris to begin with up the Pony path breaking off to go up the Foxes path. This was ideal for me as there is a long ascent on loose scree. I powered up the scree and didnt really stop. The stamina really improving in my legs. On top of Cadair Idris near to the summit is a small building many years ago it used to be a sort of tea shop. These days hikers are glad that it still has a roof on and is pretty much water tight to escape from the pouring rain. We had lunch in the building went up to the summit trig point and then descended down the Pony path. It was cold in the wind and rain and we all moved with intent down below the cloud base to a well made... 2008-1-19T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#18291 Today was a bigger day out. I picked up Martin Joyce Newbury Mountain Club at 5.30am in Hungerford and we went to the Beacons. Again we started at the Storey Arms and trucked on up to Corn Du. The weather whilst colder than the other week meant that there were clear views ranging far into the town of Brecon and the countryside around. We went over to Pen y Fan stopping for some hot tea and a few photos we went over to Cribyn. The going was better than the other week and I was carrying a 10 kilo pack which made the long ascents up to each summit a good work out. At Bwlch Neuadd because the weather was so good and little wind we carried onto Fan y Big and beyond. We eventually took a bearing and navigated over the featurless moorland to connect up with the plantation adjacent to the Neuadd reservoirs and hiked up to the escarpement terrace on the other side. This is a long flat section and it eventually either continues back to Corn Du or as we did take a left turning to the well ... 2008-1-7T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#18163 Today Nicola and I decided to have a no car day. From out hotel in Capel Curig we walked up along the A5 to a footpath that took us across wet moorland to the leat high above the A5. Then descended down to Llyn Cowlyd reservoir. We walked easily along the waters edge to the end with the dam. We had lunch on the dam beneath a low wall which served as a good wind break we traversed along the dam and onto a vague foot path to get into the planatation above Llyn Crafant above Trefriw. The conifer forest was incredibly wet under foot and we had to give alot of care to foot work in places neither of us avoided the dreaded boot sinking in mud up past the top of the boot steps. Finally we were out of the planation and we traversed down to the house called Hendre and then along the small road which circuits the lake. We went up a well worn track climbing high to gain a pass in the cirque which would link us back to Capel Curig. It had rained most of the day and now as we ascended it see... 2007-12-31T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#18162 Today Nicola and I went to Snowdonia. We decided to go to the summit of Snowdon via the Watkin Path. Some might say that this is not a demanding route up to the summit but its one Ive never done and distance wise it helps build stamina from being out around 78 hours. The Watkin Path is an interesting approach on easy paths and there is plenty of interesting things to see along the way through the deciduous woodlands lower down at the start through to the impressive waterfalls and various old mine working buildings. Theres also the Gladstone Rock with its plaque. We got to the summit of Snowdon and were hit by gusting winds and sleet. We went to the trig point and observed the new building works of the centre at the end of the railway. Because of the terrible weather I got the group shelter out and we got inside enjoying the break from the wind and sleet and had some food and hot drinks. We decended of the ridge in part via the Ranger path and headed down to a col joining the Wa... 2007-12-30T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#18157 Today was an early start 5.00 am to prepare kit food and hot drinks for the day. I went to the Brecon Beacons with Gareth King. We started out from the Storey Arms Centre up to Corn Du. It was a cold and blustery day and the wind chill was significant. We made good time and I felt pretty good. When we got to the summit ridge the wind was gusting 4050 mph which made walking difficult. We carried ontoCribyn and Peny Y Fan my OS map showed there to be a trig point but we couldnt see it. We navigated off the ridge and dropped down to. Making the decision that it was too windy to carry on the high ridge ground we went down to the Neuadd reservoirs. We had some lunch and hot tea and then climbed up to the return ridge and then dropped down to the car park beneath the Storey Arms. The last time I did this route was eleven years ago and it was a good training route as there is long ascents and short descents ideally suited to saving the knees. 2007-12-27T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#17619 Today Nic and I got up early and had a simple breakfast of bread and jam again and then packed out kit in readiness to leave the Toubkal Refuge. I found the guardian Brahim and we settled our bill with him. Luckily he gave me a half price discount for being in the BMC. As the sun began to warm the snow slopes in the Cwm we left walking carefully on all the compact snow and ice on the path. After about two and a half hours we arrived once again at Sidi Charamouch. We looked in a couple of shops and I ended up buying a Berber rug apparently a hand made very good quality one but of course arent they all. The shop owner and I haggled he started at 8000 dirams and I offered him 1000 we ended up agreeing 1000 dirams and a couple of Euros. I also picked up a large geode with Amethyst crystal inside as well. I put this in my pack and the shop owner carefully wrapped up the rug. I realised that I had to carry the geode and the rug all the way to Imlil so my pack got heavier We left... 2007-12-14T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#17591 Today has been a great day Nic felt better and well enough for a shot at the top. We left the Refuge at 8.30 am and was on the summit for 11.30 am. We took the same route the South Cwm route which I soloed yesterday. This is the easiest and most frequented way up the mountain. We took the ascent really slow and made sure we had plenty of rest stops. When we got the the final Cwm it was really good to actually take the easier route to the summit rather than up the unending scree. The easy route just continues to the sky line and then switchbacks hard left along the skyline crest of rock. This mini arete provides dramatic views of the summit plateau and the huge drop off below. On the summit we took some good photos now I had someone to take a picture I climbed the metal pyramind structure on the summit for a good photo getting down was slightly more tricky than getting up The weather was clearer today than yesterday. The views spanned miles over the snow capped A... 2007-12-13T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#17524 7.00 am and I woke up ready fo action wed packed our bags yesterday in readiness for an early get away this morning. I nudged Nic are you ready I asked no I feel ill she said. So I left on my own I left the hut at around 7.30 am and trudged on the well worn path out of the hut over the river and began the long snow plod up to the rocks on the sky line the path was generally good well won and compacted and it seemed to follow a line of least resistance against the gradient. Each time the rocks and boulders on the hoizon were met this gave way to an new plateau area. At 8.30 am I stopped for the first time to have breakfast and some water this whole valley is a hanging valley and sheltered from the sun so it felt quite cold time to get going and keep moving. Eventually it was clear that the last steep rise lead into the final valley. After trudging up I hit a huge area devoid on snow now my crampons grated against the pea sized scree. I stopped took off my crampons donned my ... 2007-12-12T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#17523 This was the first day of our walking in he Toubkal region. We started with a simple breakfast at about 7.30 am and then packed our day packs just outside the front door of the hut we put on our crampons and got ice axes ready. Today was to be an acclimatisation day and if we were up to it then maybe an ascent of Ouanoukrim the second highest mountain in Moroccoay 4088 metres. We walked from the hut heading up the valley the hard packed sonw path winding over rises and cossing frozen streams the sun was warm and there were now clouds but always the icy wind. We noted a path going of left and this clearly headed zig zagging up to a high pass I reckoned this went to Le Lac DIfini which after I looked on the map in the refuge was indeed the case. We carried on up to the pass known as Tizi n Ouagane at 3750 metres wed ignored a path heading right off our earlier as it seemed to head into a couloir and we coulnt see where this went this was actually a scramble approach route to Oua... 2007-12-11T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#17519 This morning our taxi arrived and in the early morning we headed for the hill town of Imlil. This was a short journey of around one hour. Imlil is 17 Kms from Asni and has an altitude of 1740 metres. It has a variety of shops and stalls selling tourist souvenirs the French Alpine Club refuge and there are several food shops. We bought some fresh bread and a few other things for the next few days. Imlil is the best place to arrange mules to carry loads up into the mountains. We wanted to carry our loads but I think a mule would cost around 150 diarams. We walked up the steep and winding main street Id read that the path leading to the Toubkal National Park was left on a 180 degree bend in the road we found this and so began our trek to the Toubkal refuge proper. We walked up stone steps and then on to a winding switchback path which lead to the dirt road to Aroumd. Aroumd is about 40 minutes from Imlil and has an altitude of 1960 metres. We didnt need to cross the river to t... 2007-12-10T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#17339 Dear Friends We have arrived safe and well in Marrakesh. Nic and I were taken through the bustling streets and lanes of the Medina the old walled part of the city the wall being reputedly built around the 11th Century and through tiny lanes so narrow that our bags of kit have been taken by a chariot to the Riad. The Riad is charming the architecture a blend of Moor and North African themes. The Riad is a dwelling built around a central courtyard four storeys high with a sun terrace on the roof the view over Marrakesh on towards the mountains. At the Riad we were met by the owner a charming and well travelled lady who gave us our first introduction to mint tea. A drink which to me is bitter and sugar required to make it mote palatable. Our room is delightful and looks our into the central courtyard area. Marrakesh is real Arabian nights stuff we went into the main square last night to eat we tried eating from one of the many food stalls which turned out to be really cheap about e... 2007-12-9T00:00:00Z http://www.leefarmer.co.uk/page12.htm#16910 As many friends and climbing buddies know I have been busy organising things for the upcoming Everest Trip. It really takes some doing However along the way I have organised and will be leading a trip to Morocco to make a winter attempt on the highest mountain in the Atlas mountains and the highest mountain in North Africa Jebel Toubkal at 4167 metres 13671 feet. We leave the UK in early December 2007 for one week. Toubkal is a mountain in the southwestern part of Morocco located approximately 63 km south of Marrakesh. We will be staying in a Riad an old courtyard style house in the old Medina part of Marrakech for the first few days. These first days will be busy arranging transportation and buying fresh food and supplies. I hope we will have the time to go to Djeemaa El Fna the large square in the Medina where acrobats fire eaters fortune tellers and snake charmers abound. Also to visit the Souks the area with metal workers carpet makers and all manner of craftsmen. From Marrak... 2007-11-26T00:00:00Z