It's been a week since I've been back from Nepal.  I've been busy with TV, radio and newspapers.  All due to my successful summitting of Everest. I have been overwhelmed by the interest my Live Everest Dispatches have made.  I hope to put them all on a separate page on the website before long.

I haven't done any training since I've been back, but Callum Ings (NMC) and I managed to get a days climbing in this week as the forested crag called the Dewerstone in South West Devon.  I'd climbed there before and we managed to do the following routes:  Caesar's Nose (S), Pinnacle Chimney (VD) and Mucky Gully (VD).  All seemed high in the grades and we certainly appreciated climbing on granite is a wee bit different to the limestone we're used to in the Wye Valley and down at Swanage. Holds were good, but protection had to be hunted for, though when  found was generally solid.

With some much physical hardship being in the Himalayas for three months, I need to put some hours in back down the climbing wall.  This will help build muscle strength which I've lost and get my head back into the climbing game.

I look forward to writing the next dispatch.

Lee

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I decided to try and get some miles in.  So I chose the 70 mile long distance path called the Wayfarers Walk, which stretches the entire lenght of the county of Hampshire.

Nicola dropped me off in Portsmouth, and whilst I didn't start at the true beginning at the marina in Emsworth, I started at Portdown above Portsmouth.  With a 17 kilo pack, I made good progress on this first day covering around 22 miles.  I bivvied in a coppice for the night, then at dawn on the 4th March I continued.

This second day saw me covering the countryside up to Dummer near the M3 and crossing over the motorway to Deane.  I finally arrived at Watership Down above Kingslcere in the early evening, where Nicola picked me up.  This second day was about 24 miles long.  So in two days I covered 56 miles.

This was good training for carrying a pack over distance.

The training weekend tied in nicely with Newbury Mountain Club's Lake District weekend away.     Andy Miles and myself decided to do a multi pitch rock climbing route on Dow Crag.   We were staying in   Borrow Club hut near 'Copper Mines' high above Coniston and Dow Crag isn't far away.   Early on Saturday we walked from the hut to the crag, which took about 1.30 hours.   I was carrying alot of climbing hardware (Andy the ropes) my pack weighing around 20 kilos.  

The weather was poor, hill fog and patchy rain, the crags wet and slippery.   So we opted to attempt Giants Crawl on B Buttress a 'difficult' graded route.   We didn't bother with rock shoes, rather too wet for them, instead we climbed in our walking boots.   The route involves seven pitches and we alternated leading on these pitches.   It was difficult going because of the conditions; slippery, wet and cold. Running water on the rock seemed to be in every decent hand hold and soon our hands were numb with the cold.   Each pitch seemed to take forever and the belayer of each pitch soon got very cold.  

There was some interesting moves to be had, 'The Narrows' an airy challenge for me and the awkward chimney move on pitch 5,   one for Andy to swear at.   We topped out, and walked straight into gale force winds, quickly we got down the ridge and back to the unmade track high above Coniston.   We walked back to the club hut in the dark; the whole day door to door being   eleven hours long. We entered the hut with perfect timing: dinner was ready!

Saturday was great stamina training for the Himalayas, carrying that heavy pack and 'working' at climbing for around eight hours is good preparation for those steep ascents.

Sunday saw Andy and myself take on The North Face trail in Grizedale Forest on our mountain bikes.   A ten mile red grade route.   This took about 2.15 hours,   the single track sections were great fun, and the boardwalk sections really tested   balance with their adverse angled sections.   I was pleased neither of us had any mishaps on the route.   It was again good for stamina, but also a good CV workout, as there were several uphill sections which made the heart and lungs work hard.

Today Nicola and I did the Pen Y Fan circuit which I am getting to know rather well. We included Fan Y Big, so all in all just over 10 miles today.  Significantly, I carried a 17 kilo pack and we cleared Corn Du and Pen Y Fan in 50 minutes from the car, not stopping until descent the other side of Pen Y Fan. 

The pack weight, combined with the gusting winds made the circuit a good work out and I felt pretty strong until the last big ascent where I had to dig deep in the energy reserves and push through the fatigue. 

It was a good trainining session and Nicola was very strong on the mountain.

I drove up to Dolgellau in South Snowdonia, to meet my chums of Newbury Mountain Club.  Andy Miles had organised  the first club weekend of the year and sourced a very nice bunkhouse in the middle of the town.  I left Newbury at 5.30am and arrived a little after 9.00am.

We all hit the hill and despite the wet weather went up Cadair Idris, to begin with up the Pony path, breaking off to go up the Foxes path.  This was ideal for me as there is a long ascent on loose scree.  I powered up the scree and didn't really stop.  The stamina really improving in my legs.  On top of Cadair Idris, near to the summit is a small building, many years ago it used to be a sort of tea shop.  These days hikers are glad that it still has a roof on and is pretty much water tight, to escape from the pouring rain.  We had lunch in the building, went up to the summit trig point and then descended down the Pony path.  It was cold in the wind and rain and we all moved with intent down below the cloud base, to a well made path which eventually led back to the car park.

It was a good trip out, a shortish day, but a nice bit of intense training up the scree slope.

Today was a bigger day out.  I picked up Martin Joyce (Newbury Mountain Club) at 5.30am in Hungerford and we went to the Beacons.  Again we started at the Storey Arms and trucked on up to Corn Du.  The weather whilst colder than the other week meant that there were clear views ranging far into the town of Brecon and the countryside around.  We went over to Pen y Fan stopping for some hot tea and a few photos we went over to Cribyn.  The going was better than the other week and I was carrying a 10 kilo pack, which made the long ascents up to each summit a good work out. At Bwlch Neuadd, because the weather was so good and little wind we carried onto Fan y Big and beyond.  We eventually took a bearing and navigated over the featurless moorland to connect up with the plantation adjacent to the Neuadd reservoirs and hiked up to the escarpement terrace on the other side.  This is a long flat section and it eventually either continues back to Corn Du or as we did take a left turning to the well made descent path back to the first car park. From this car park it's a short walk back to the Storey Arms car park. 

It was a good yomp today and I certainly felt like I'd worked out.  I think we did around 8-10 miles today. The stamina seems to be getting better and I can only improve on today.

Today Nicola and I decided to have a 'no car' day.  From out hotel in Capel Curig we walked up along the A5 to a footpath that took us across wet moorland to the leat high above the A5.  Then descended down to Llyn Cowlyd reservoir.  We walked easily along the waters edge to the end with the dam.  We had lunch on the dam beneath a low wall which served as a good wind break, we traversed along the dam and onto a vague foot path to get into the planatation above Llyn Crafant (above Trefriw).  The conifer forest was incredibly wet under foot and we had to give alot of care to foot work in places, neither of us avoided the dreaded 'boot sinking in mud up past the top of the boot' steps.  Finally we were out of the planation and we traversed down to the house called Hendre and then along the small road which circuits the lake.  We went up a well worn track, climbing high to gain a pass in the cirque which would link us back to Capel Curig.  It had rained most of the day and now as we ascended it seemed to come in even more.  We entered the pass and carried on a very worn foot path traversing around some clearly boggy ground.  The horizon view seemed to become familiar with landmarks around Capel Curig coming into view, the base of Moel Siabod could be seen, the high part of the mountain shrouded in mist. 

Beneath us I could see we were behind buildings which fronted the A5, the youth hostel, Snowdon Cafe, and our hotel the Bryn Trych. We walked easily back to the hotel, wet in the rain and gald to dry off in the warmth of the public bar's fire.

Today contained little steep long ascents, but the distance and length of time carrying a load, has made up for the lack of ascent.

Today Nicola and I went to Snowdonia.  We decided to go to the summit of Snowdon, via the Watkin Path.  Some might say that this is not a demanding route up to the summit, but it's one I've never done and distance wise it helps build stamina from being out around 7-8 hours.  The Watkin Path is an interesting approach on easy paths and there is plenty of interesting things to see along the way; through the deciduous woodlands lower down at the start, through to the impressive waterfalls and various old mine working buildings.  There's also the Gladstone Rock with it's plaque.  We got to the summit of Snowdon and were hit by gusting winds and sleet.  We went to the trig point and observed the new building works of the centre at the end of the railway.  Because of the terrible weather, I got the group shelter out and we got inside, enjoying the break from the wind and sleet and had some food and hot drinks.  We decended of the ridge in part via the Ranger path and headed down to a col, joining the Watkin path again.

This was a new walk in bad weather and the training element was good as  felt that I could have repeated the walk again or at least carried on, I didn't feel tired. 

Today was an early start 5.00 am, to prepare kit, food and hot drinks for the day.  I went to the Brecon Beacons with Gareth King.  We started out from the Storey Arms Centre, up to Corn Du.  It was a cold and blustery day and the wind chill was significant.  We made good time and I felt pretty good.  When we got to the summit ridge the wind was gusting 40-50 mph, which made walking difficult. We carried ontoCribyn and  Peny Y Fan, my OS map showed there to be a trig point, but we couldn't see it.  We navigated off the ridge and dropped down to.  Making the decision that it was too windy to carry on the high ridge ground we went down to the Neuadd reservoirs. We had some lunch and hot tea and then climbed up to the return ridge, and then dropped down to the car park beneath the Storey Arms. 

The last time I did this route was eleven years ago and it was a good training route as there is long ascents and short descents ideally suited to saving the knees.   

Today, Nic and I got up early and had a simple breakfast of bread and jam (again!) and then packed out kit, in readiness to leave the Toubkal Refuge.  I found the guardian, Brahim and we settled our bill with him.  Luckily he gave me a half price discount for being in the BMC. 

As the sun began to warm the snow slopes in the Cwm, we left walking carefully on all the compact snow and ice on the path.  After about two and a half hours we arrived once again at Sidi Charamouch.  We looked in a couple of 'shops' and I ended up buying a Berber rug, apparently a hand made very good quality one, but of course aren't they all.  The shop owner and I haggled, he started at 8,000 dirams and I offered him 1,000, we ended up agreeing 1,000 dirams and a couple of Euros.  I also picked up a large geode with Amethyst crystal inside as well.  I put this in my pack and the shop owner carefully wrapped up the rug. I realised that I had to carry the geode and the rug, all the way to Imlil, so my pack got heavier!  

We left in good spirits and made our way past the vegetable and grass terraced plots, through the walnut trees and onto the dry river bed towards Armound.  Passing Armound we arrived at Imlil. Hungry, we found a decent cafe, that had several tajines slowly cooking the food inside over hot charcoal.  We ordered a tajine and some cokes and enjoyed watching the coming and goings of every day Imlil life.  Our taxi was on time at our meeting point, outside the French Alpine Club refuge of Imlil, it was good to be going back to Marrakesh, though we did have a great time in the mountains. 

I think it is a place we will come back to to explore futher mountains and their peaks.  Lee   

Today has been a great day, Nic felt better and well enough for a shot at the top.   We left the Refuge at 8.30 am and was on the summit for 11.30 am.   We took the same route, the South Cwm route which I soloed yesterday.   This is the easiest and most frequented way up the mountain.  

We took the ascent really slow and made sure we had plenty of rest stops.   When we got the the final Cwm it was really good to actually take the easier route to the summit rather than up the unending scree.   The easy route just continues to the sky line and then switchbacks hard left along the skyline crest of rock.   This mini arete provides dramatic views of the summit plateau and the huge drop off below.  

On the summit we took some good photos, now I had someone to take a picture, I climbed the metal pyramind structure on the summit, for a good photo, getting down was slightly more tricky than getting up!  

The weather was clearer today than yesterday.  The views spanned miles over the snow capped Altas mountains and beyond to the lower anti-Atlas mountain range.

Rested we descended the same route we came down and reached the refuge hut without mishap.   Our legs aching with a long descent, mine doubly so! we enjoyed the after glow of a successful summit attempt by the fire side in the lounge area.  Lee

7.00 am and I woke up ready fo action; we'd packed our bags yesterday in readiness for an early get away this morning. I nudged Nic, 'are you ready'? I asked, 'no I feel ill' she said. So I left on my own, I left the hut at around 7.30 am and trudged on the well worn path out of the hut over the river, and began the long snow plod up to the rocks on the sky line, the path was generally good, well won and compacted and it seemed to follow a line of least resistance against the gradient.  

Each time the rocks and boulders on the hoizon were met, this gave way to an new plateau area.   At 8.30 am I stopped for the first time to have breakfast and some water, this whole valley is a hanging valley and sheltered from the sun, so it felt quite cold, time to get going and keep moving.   Eventually it was clear that the last steep rise lead into the final valley.   After trudging up I hit a huge area devoid on snow, now my crampons grated against the pea sized scree.   I stopped took off my crampons, donned my sunglasses (I was now in the sun) and headed directly up the obvious red scree path to my left. Mistaka to maka!! this was really tough and very hard going, I found it easier to step kick in any patch of snow I encountered, than walk up the scree.   I looked down to see a group continue up to a higher path, this was obviously the hard way up on they were on the easy way up.   I knew I'd hit the 4,000 metre mark my body told me so; I don't know why this is the world over, less O2 I guess, I checked my altimeter to confirm this was the case;   the good thing being that meant only 167 metres to the summit.  

I hit the highest point on the horizon, and scrambled up some rocks to their top, below me was a huge drop, but I could see the summit triangle structure on the other side of this drop.   I skirted round and found a snow covered track which lead to the summit plateau, in a few minutes I was at the summit.   There was a Spanish couple there whom I recognised from the hut, we shook hands and congratulated each other.   The view on a clear day such as this, stretched for miles over the snow covered Atlas mountains and beyond.   It was awesome to at the highest point in North Africa, the highest point in Morocco, (4,167 metres)   and successfully make a solo, winter summit attempt (though of course I was only halfway - I still had to get down).

To go down after leaving the summit plateau I followed the reverse of the route which the  group that I had watched earlier take, they incidently were an English group who I did chat to on the summit, they were from Travel Bag.  This way down was alot easier on the legs and took advantage of the contours.  I quickly got to the point where I had to put my crampons back on and ice axe out just in case of a slip on the step ground.  I quickly retraced my way back to the last small plateau region above the hut and then 'gorilla walked' down the last snow slope near to the hut.  I cossed the river again and back to the hut for 1.40 pm, just in time for lunch with Nicola, who was feeling better.

Lee

This was the first day of our walking in he Toubkal region.  We started with a simple breakfast at about 7.30 am and then packed our day packs, just outside the front door of the hut we put on our crampons and got ice axes ready. 

Today was to be an acclimatisation day and if we were up to it then maybe an ascent of Ouanoukrim, the second highest mountain in Moroccoay 4,088 metres.  We walked from the hut heading up the valley, the hard packed sonw path winding over rises and cossing frozen streams, the sun was warm and there were now clouds, but always the icy wind.  We noted a path going of left and this clearly headed, zig zagging up to a high pass, I reckoned this went to Le Lac D'Ifini, which after I looked on the map in the refuge was indeed the case.  We carried on up to the pass known as Tizi - n' Ouagane at 3,750 metres, we'd ignored a path heading right off our earlier as it seemed to head into a couloir and we couln't see where this went;  this was actually a scramble approach route to Ouanoukrim.  At the pass we had lunch and decided that was enough for today.  We retraced our steps and headed back to he hut, on the we we found a lage bulbous lump of water ice, some twelve feet high, I decided to try and climb it, borowing Nic's axe, began to climb, kicking in my crampons and  getting holds with the axes.  It was difficult because the axe picks were quite blunt and of course being walking axes too long really for this type of work.  The ice was also very brittle and kept shattering; I got half way up and an axe came free and left me dangling in the air,  I decided this was enough of playing around, Nic thought it would make a good picture!

We went back to the hut and  settled down in the lounge by the log fire with some mint tea;  tomorrow would be our summit attempt on Toubkal.  Lee

This morning our taxi arrived and in the early morning we headed for the hill town of Imlil.  This was a short journey of around one hour.  Imlil is 17 Kms from Asni and has an altitude of 1,740 metres.  It has a variety of shops and stalls selling tourist souvenirs, the French Alpine Club refuge and there are several food shops.  We bought some fresh bread and a few other things for the next few days.  Imlil is the best place to arrange mules to carry loads up into the mountains.  We wanted to carry our loads but I think a mule would cost around 150 diarams. 

We walked up the steep and winding main street, I'd read that the path leading to the Toubkal National Park was left on a 180 degree bend in the road, we found this and so began our trek to the Toubkal refuge proper.  We walked up stone steps and then on to a winding switchback path which lead to the dirt road to Aroumd.  Aroumd is about 40 minutes from Imlil and has an altitude of 1,960 metres.  We didn't need to cross the river to the village, whose buildings seemed to cling to the hillside.  We continued passed and over a wide river bed to the same side of the valley as Aroumd. A sign here told us that we were now in the National Park.  Again we walked up undulating switchback paths and the heat of the day made carrying a pack hot work, maybe a mule wasn't such a bad idea.  We passed terraced field systems which must take advantage of the river run offs as they were the only green (grass) to be seen there were several walnut trees devoid of leaves because it is winter here in Morocco. 

Around a bend in the path and we came across a flock of goats and their shepherd, the goats bleating noisily as they searched the scree covered ground for anything edible.  We then spied up ahead a large white painted boulder, this boulder marks the shrine of Sidi Charmarouch and contains a small mosque; the altitude of Sidi Charamouch is 2,340 metres.  Aparently this village is a popular pilgrimage as the source of the stream is supposed to have healing powers, especially good for curing leg ailments!  We were met by several of the locals, keen for us to visit their shops or have a drink of mint tea or the universal Coke.  We decided that we should hire a porter to carry Nic's bag the rest of the wat, we agreed a price and the porter set of at a great pace up the switch back path, Nic now not laden down with a heavy pack, did the same and I was left behind to carry my lage pack, all good 'training' apparently.  At Sidi Charmarounch we encountered our first snow and ice; heavy and compacted on the path which made it difficult underfoot, a slip being treacherous.

For several hours I yomped on the path until I could see I was turning a corner in the valley, snow now all around and there was an icy blast of wind coming down this valley. The day began to turn to dusk and up ahead I could see the light of the refuge, showing the way.  There are two refuges, the first a privately owned enterpise, the second only some 25 yards further is the Fench Alpine Club of Morocco's hut; this was to be our base for the next four days. As I carefully picked my way through the snow to the door of the refuge, Nic was there to meet me, everything was sorted and clearly my reservation via email from the UK had worked, dinner was on the table.  I hurriedly unpacked my sleeping bag laid it out on the 'Alpine style' bunk, and went down stairs for dinner. 

The altitude of the hut is 3,207 metres. 

Dear Friends,

We have arrived safe and well in Marrakesh.  Nic and I were taken through the bustling streets and lanes of the Medina; the old walled part of the city, the wall being reputedly built around the 11th Century, and through tiny lanes, so narrow that our bags of kit have been taken by a chariot to the Riad.  The Riad is charming the architecture a blend of Moor and North African themes.  The Riad is a dwelling built around a central courtyard, four storeys high, with a sun terrace on the roof, the view over Marrakesh on towards the mountains. At the Riad we were met by the owner, a charming and well travelled lady, who gave us our first introduction to mint tea.  A drink which to me is bitter and sugar required to make it mote palatable.  Our room is delightful and looks our into the central courtyard area.

Marrakesh is real Arabian nights stuff, we went into the main square last night to eat, we tried eating from one of the many food stalls, which turned out to be really cheap about eight quid for both of us and the food was great, Tangine of vegetables and chicken, and kebabs, we also had olives and a spinach dish both were good.  We made the mistake of ordering snails from another stall a large bowl costing 10 dirams.  Nic didn`t eat hers and I struggled with mine, suffice to say I think they are an acquired taste.  Around the food stalls are magicians, acrobats, snake charmers, fortune tellers, dentists, dancing Barbary apes and henna tattooists, you`d think this was just for the tourists, but the crowds around seem to be made up of almost entirely locals. 

Several times a day there`s the call to prayer from many mosques, reminding us that this is a muslim country.  It didn`t wake me this morning becqause I think I was too tired from the travelling from yesterday morning.  Oh, and we can`t find anywhere to get a beer yet, another reminder.

The mountains look good, there is a good coating of snow on the higher peaks, which seems out of place in such a desert country as Morrocco. Though it is significant, the amount of snow means that we`ll have good conditions underfoot for our winter ascent.  I hope the weather stays the same, warm and dry. We have organised transportation with the taxi driver who picked us up from the airport.  He will take us to Imlil tomorrow, this will cost 600 dirams or about thirty five quid for a 65 km journey.  This seems OK as the internet information I looked at said 500 dirams and that was written about four years ago.

Today we packed our rucksacks, my sleeping bag seems to fill mine up, I think I`m packing around 20 kilos which is fine. We have also walked around Marrakesh, of course we got lost, but we were helped by a local dustbin man, who took us the long way round to where we wanted to go, of course for a good tip, or baksheesh as it is called in these parts. Speaking French really helps and we can make ourselves easily understood.  Morocco was a French colony (remember the film Cassablanca). 

Tonight, if we can find our way around we hope to go to a good restaurant with a belly dancing and dervish show. Tomorrow an early start to get to Imlil and start walking in the Mizane Valley, up to the French Alpine Club Hut of Toubkal. This should take anywhere between five and seven hours, going through the village of Aroumd and up through the valley, the club hut being our base to attempt Toubkal and some surrounding peaks over three days.

Next time I blog will bring news of our summit attempt, upon our return to Marrakesh.  Lee

As many friends and climbing buddies know, I have been busy organising things for the upcoming Everest Trip.  It really takes some doing! However along the way I have organised and will be leading a trip to Morocco to make a winter attempt on the highest mountain in the Atlas mountains and the highest mountain in North Africa  - Jebel Toubkal at 4,167 metres (13,671 feet). We leave the UK in early December 2007 for one week.

Toubkal is a mountain in the southwestern part of Morocco, located approximately 63 km south of Marrakesh.  We will be staying in a Riad (an old courtyard style house) in the old Medina part of Marrakech for the first few days. These first days will be busy, arranging transportation and buying fresh food and supplies. I hope we will have the time to go to Djeemaa El Fna, the large square in the Medina, where acrobats, fire eaters, fortune tellers and snake charmers abound. Also to visit the Souks, the area with metal workers, carpet makers and all manner of craftsmen.

From Marrakesh, we will travel to the village of Imlil about one hour's journey from Marrakesh.  From Imlil we trek to the Berber village of Aroumd past the small settlement of Sidi Chamharouch, into the Isougouane Valley to our base for the week; the French Alpine Club's Neltner Refuge at an altitude of 3,207m.  We will have a four day window of opportunity to attempt the south col route of approximately 960 metres to the summit plateau.  If we do this in good time and weather permits we will explore surrounding peaks of Toubkal.

I'll let you know how things progress when we are on the expedition.  Lee

 Place Djeemaa El Fna

The bustle of the souk

Nelter refuge

Summit of Toubkal