With Ian, Callum, and Steve we all trucked up to Glencoe and stayed in a bunkhouse in Onich.

With ice climbing in Scotland you are always at the whim of the weather and the subsequent snow conditions.  Our first and what was to be our last venture out was as the last dispatch up to SCNL  and this time we split the team Callum and Ian trying the straight forward Dorsal Arete (Grade II) and myself and Steve SC Gully (Grade III).

Each team went their respective separate ways and Steve and I disappeared into the gllom of the gully.  We solo climbed as far as we could jamming our axes into the hard packed snow like daggers.  Slowly the snow rib we'd been climbing steepened and I got to a point where I decided we had to rope up.  On a small rocky flat area we assembley the two ropes and Steve set up a belay,  'climb when ready' he shouted as a shower of old ice and gruapnel showered down on us.  Off I went and entered a bottleneck of rock the snow infront of me getting steeper and steeeper.  I snow whas wet and it was very difficult to find and good ice to sink the pick of the axes into.  I began to wish for a nice crack to get some protection in but it wasn't appearing, nothing to put a nut or a piton in, which would stop the adrenaline and stomach butterflies I was having.  Then to my left as I was perched between rock and ice I saw an old piton.  I placed a carabiner through it and then a long runner.  The butterflies began to subside as I wondered how many people before me had been thankful for this well placed bit of in situ gear.  I carried on and a similar thing happened I nedd gear and thankfully at every stragegic point there was some insitu- a piton, a battered old friend jammed and rusted in a crack, a nut still on wire, it was all there.  Except below the crux the last piton I saw a tested it and it crumble into a rusty lump in my hand - the butterflies were back. 

The guide book had described the crux as a sheet of ice, a frozen stream, an ice curtain to climb up and over.  In front of me was bare dripping wet loos rock. I explored cracks and holes with a pick and pulled sharpishly, the loose rock tore out of the wall infront of me and I yelled 'below' as they tumbled past me towards Steve; who was positioned on belay out of the fall area.  I had to climb out right onto rock and snow.  I couldn't take the crux head on as it clearly wasn't in condition.  I began to explorer each ledge, nook and cranny with hands and feet.  Mentally rehearsing my forthcoming moves.  I moved, right foot on a ledge and move up with left pick to torque in a crack.  Move up left left offset in a crck the crampons screeching in indignation as they fought with the rock.  Another torque with the right axe and I was over the hardest part, but not quite over the lip of the crux.  A few more moves and I was there.  Gasping for breath like a fish out of water on the frozen hard turf. 

I recovered and quickly looked around for a belay stance.  The stance to me wasn't as important as setting up the ropes.  I found a crack to take a blade piton and another to take a number seven and a number five nut.  I set up, but because of the steep slope uneven on my foot placements.  I knew one foot would begin to go dead before long.  I called down to Steve to tell him I was 'safe' and he broke down the belay.  I flaked spare rope and began to bring him up.  He moved without incident until the crux.  His first attempt went OK until the hard move and he fell off.  The force of which pulled me face onto the cold damp rock face where my anchors were, my harness cut into my kidneys.  I shouted down concerned.  He was OK and he tried two more times.  On the last attempt he was over, and we rested on the belay, me moving my dead feet and feeling for my kidneys, he gasping for breath.

Three more pitches led Steve to the small cornice at the lip of the climb.  It was still a five foot wall of snow which he had to hack through to get us out.  It took a long time.  I guess he ste up a belay on the top and I yelled for him to bring me up.  No answer.  It was only when I got up myself I realsied how much wind was blowing on the top of the mountain.  No wonder he couldn't hear me.  

We quickly traversed towards Dorsal arete and broad gully.  We over shot this in the now fast appearing twilight. I knew we were nearly ontop of Boomerng gully and told Steve we had to back track.  Straining my eyes I spied the gendarme at the top of Dorsal arete and knew the gully was righ of this.  We went down and picked it up and gorilla walked down it to the packs and a patiently waiting Callum and Ian; they'd finished their climb four hourse before ours!

As many friends and followers will know I was working for Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions for all of December and some of January.  During this time I met many great people, whilst Iwas based down at Patriot Hills in Antarctica.  I was busy lecturing and guiding clients to the South Pole.  I maanged to get to the Pole three times and each time was exciting and I saw something different there every time - there is the American Amundsen-Scott scientific base there, which we were shown around. I did manage to practice my telemark skiing around Patriot Hills and was please to have the opportunity.

Since getting back to the UK, I have been getting back into climbing, with regular indoor sessions on the climbing wall both in Newbury and Swindon.  As all climbers will know after having  a lay off from climbing the arm and finger strength goes quick quickly and I'm in the process of building that back up.  I've managed a few 6a's on the wall and hope to be up to 6b by Easter.

There's been almost as much snow in the UK as in Antarctica! So I managed to get up to Scotland with my wife over Valentines weekend.  I had checked out the avalanche information and general snow conditions for the West coast and we decided to go to Stob Coire nan Lochan (SCNL).  After what I consider a late breakfast in our B&B in Fort William we arrived in Glencoe. In my pack was a full rack of hardwear including pitons and ice screws and I also carrieda 50m 10.5 mm rope.  The ascend to SCNL is long and tedious only the reward of climbing makes the 2.5 hour slog bearable.  I was surprised to meet snow low down on the path, not long after the bridge and the first few rises.  We trudged up the well worn path snow and ice being our partners along the way.  Finally we go up the last rise and into the coire, walking up the some large boulders where we dropped our packs and began to gear up. A party behind asked us what we were going to do.  I hadn't actually decided but as we'd done Dorsal Arete several times before I thought we'd try something else. 

 So we decided to do Forked Gully and easy Grade II with a Grade III variant.  I set up the first belay stance on the right hand side of Dorsal Arete, the true line was straight up the gully, but I felt we needed more a substantial stance than just a snow belay.  I led and moved quickly out to the middle of the snow going the full length of the rope.  We actually did five pitches to the top.  The last was frustratingly close to the cornice only about 15 metres short and Nicola led this and topped out.  It had been a straight forward route, but long in time. There was not chance of doing another route as it was getting late in the afternoon.  We descended down broard gully a straightforward grade I, but there was a lot of wet snow and little traffic there this day.  We got to the packs and put our gear away, Nic carried the rope down and I carried the rack.  By the time we hit the descent path prope it was dark and we got back to the car in darkness, though of course we had our head torches.

It had been a good day and well worth the long walk in to get another new route done.

Again I got to Sheepstor early. Though soon enough came Andy our assessor and Phil and Sam the other two candidates.

Sheepstor I a fairly small tor compared to some on Dartmoor.  Though it has an strange amost vertical face on one side.  Odd as most tors have been weathered round by time and weather over the millenia. 

Andy briefed us.  We were to set up releasable abseils and also later to lead climb, setting up a tope rope belay to bring up the second.

I clipped myself into a safety rope I had set up, so I didn't have to worry about falling over the edge. I set up my abseil system using three 'bomber' natural anchors, then proceeded to set up the safety rope and the abseil rope.  Sam who had led a route was to be my 'victim' and he lowered himself down until, he got something caught in his belay device.  I locked off the safety rope and put slack into the abseil rope.  He freed himself and I locked the rope back off and continued to lower with the safety rope, whilst he went down the abseil rope. 

Andy had all the time been inspecting the proceedure and he was happy with what I had done.  He did suggest a few things and I took this onboard. 

Now back down at the bottom of the crag face, it was my turn to lead.  I'd picked a VD route called Sheltered Crack, but another team of climbers had set up a top rope on this route.  I have climbed at Sheepstor a few times before and know that the routes are high in the grade.  So I picked a route I had done before called Barking Crack a VD.  I led this vertical climb and Sam belayed me.  All the routes on this face are stiff and this is one of the few that doesn't have an overhang finish.  I got up Ok placing protection along the way.  I set up a belay stance using two points on natural anchors for my protection and Sam came up.  Again Andy was overseeing and said I'd used a classic anchor and belay stance to bring him up.

All three of us were pleased back down at the bottom to be complimented by Andy on our logbooks and standard of climbing and skills we had demonstrated over the last two days.  He told us we had passed and all three of us were to receive the red sticker showing we had done so in our logbooks.

I registered for SPA in 2006 took my training with Andy Holborn in 2007 and now in 2008 I passed my assessment.  I was very statisfied that a year's self training from SPA training to asseement had paid off, now I was qualified to take people out rock climbing.

Lee

After driving down late last night, I arrived at The Dewerstone car park about one hour earlier than the 9.00am meet.  This gave me a chance to sort out my rack of climbing hardwear and quickly re-read some information in a few books.

Just before 9.00 am a white MPV pulled into the car park; it was Andy Holborn our MIA instructor who was going to assess us the candidates for today and tomorrow.  There ended up being three of us for assessment, I was joing by Sam and Phil. 

Passing the SPA assessment would mean that we were fully qualified to supervise individuals and groups on rock climbing routes described as single pitch in any guide book.  It didn't qualify us to lead on multi pitch, nor to give instruction in the use of climbing hardwear for example.  It was an improtant qualification for me to gain as it is the perfect compliment to the Mountain Leader (ML) award.

We made our way to The Dewerstone through beautiful beach forests which surround the river Plym.  It is a really nice place to climb, a very natural enviroment, though around fifty years ago the wooded valley was thriving with industry such as a brick works and china clay works.  Here is an example of nature taking over again and repairing herself.  Today the area is owned the The National Trust and as climbers we have an envronmental responsibility not be stewards of the crag. We made our way to the Penny Bay area and we instructed to set up a system for bottom roping.  We all did this and began to belay each other up the faces of rock.  I set my bottom rope system up Mambo Slab a VD.  Sam went up and then had to pretend he was stuck.  Rescue the only was to get him down.  I set up a prussick above my belay device and began to climb up to him.  The prussick being used as an auto block stopping me from sliding back down the rope.  I got to him and with a cow's tail sling and locking carabiner asked him to clip into this and another carabiner attached to the cow's tail clippied back to me.  I now had him in a good position close to me and above me.  I lowered us both back down to the ground.

Phil and Sam demonstrated other methods of rescuing on their ropes.  We then had lunch and discussed general climbing techniques.  After lunch we moved around th the main area of The Dewerstone.  We were to climb as a three, one leader, one in the middle and one end belayer, using two ropes.  We pick a route called Colonel's Arete a VD route, it has four pitches, this enabled us to all take a pitch and demonstrate out placing protection, leading and belaying skills.  It was a sunny day and as we got higher we were treated to a glorious view of looking down upon the tree canopy.  I think we all though that this really didn't feel like a rock climbing assessment, more a day out with friends.  Andy seems to have a skill in making candidates relaxed and I think this brings out the best in them.

After climbing the pretty easy Colonel's arete we then sat by the bottom of the crag and discussed climbing history in the UK.  Then Andy wanted us to demonstrate our personal abseiling skills.  This we did by setting up a rope on Route B a HVD. All three of us assisted in setting up the anchors at the top of the route and then one by one went down the abseil rope.

Everyone was doing well, we demonstrated our skills.  All that was left for today was to go through our home test papers that Andy had sent to us some weeks ago.  It was a good excercise and some questions prompted much discussion.  The three of us averaged 96% which I thought was rather good.

That was us finished for the day.  We were to meet at Sheepstor, higher up on Dartmoor, tomorrow for the second day of assessment.

Lee  

With fellow Newbury Mountain Club member Matrin Joyce.  We left Newbury with the intention of accomplishing three things today.  1) Practice for me for my upcoming SPA assessment, as this is a Single Pitch crag, 2) Try and lead the (low in grade) VS's on the crag face, and 3) Martin to have his first taste of outdoor rock.

We left my house in good time and with expert navigation from Martin arrived at Plump Hill.  There's an easy place to park and it is so close from the crag, that when on the top of routes, the car can be seen.  We disembarked from the car and walked across sodden grass, to a tricky muddy path which sloped steeply down into the quarry.

Avoiding nettles and brambles down the path we made it to the bottom of the quarry.  It is a small place with really only one rock face.  A steep angled slab containing friable rock, but good natural and man made anchors above and a safe area below at the foot of the crag.

We set up and I led Dusty Springfield (VS 4b) the first route on the left hand side.  This went well protection going in predominately on the left hand side of the climb.  However at about 3/4's height the slab went pretty blank and I had to hunt around for holds and try and find some protection.  Only a small crack could be found nd in went the most usettling of nuts - a micro; these tiny slithers of brass don't instill any confidence in me for making a next move.  Though it was all I had, onwards I went testing everything,  I found a small edge and began to pull up on fingers the edge and the flake it's attached to began to move. If I pull on it any further there was the chance of it coming away from the rock face.  I managed to relaxe the grip of this flake and find a small smearing grip for one hand.  Over this, holds cam more readily with a couple of horizontal fault lines.  I easily made it to t he top and to the safety of the large grassy area above.  I set up an belay using a large pine tree and a man made anchor - a piece of angle iron driven into the ground.  Martin came up well ass a second and cleaned the route of my protection. 

We went back down to the base and I checked out Day Tripper (VS 4c) I wanted to make sure that the rock was dry, as this route is in the fare right hand corner of the slab and is a corner/crack route.  It seems OK and with a hard start I was off the ground.  With a crack on the right hand side of the slab face, it was easy to place hexes and cams into this crack.  I speedily made my way up it.  Surprised at how easy it was.  However I think Plump Hill is known for having been graded too high.  These routes were more like Severes and Hard Severes, not Very Severes.  Martin came up again strong and fast. 

Now after a lunch break we set up a releasable rappel.  This was the technique I really had to practice if I was going to pass next weeks' assessment.  I set it up and with my assistant Martin, who had to keep rappelling down the slab, began to get the technique right and make it 'slick'. 

After I was satisfied I could set this up and importantly work the system.  It was time for Martin to have a go at his first lead.  We picked Little Treasure (VD)  a short route on a subsidiary wall, to the main slab area.  There's plenty of cracks for the novice to experiment with, whether it be holds or placing protection.  Up he went and he managed to get some protection in, but it seemed difficult for him to get the body techniques right for outdoor lead climbing.  He did get over the top and set up an adequate belay.  He brought me up - me still in my trainers! I explained to him how to make the belay safer next time, we also discussed the big difference between indoor wall climbing and doing it for real outside.  He was very satified to have done a lead climb, and we went back to our bags. We packed up and left Plump Hill satisfied that we had achieved all that we had set out to do.

Lee  

Debating whether to go out climbing today, based on the overcast sky and drizzle.  We decided to 'go for it' and our drive along the M4 took us not to the usual Wintours Leap in the Wye Valley, but to Wynd Cliffe.

Wynd Cliffe is virtually oppostie Wintours Leap and each venue can be seen from one another.  We parked in the Upper Car Park and got the gear out of the car in a muddy and wet car park.  It didn't look great for climbing , but as we were here we thought we may as well have a look at the crag.  Descending the '365 steps' a winding stepped path through the woods, which wouldn't look out of place in The Lord of the Rings, we found the path to the Left Hand Crag of Wynd Cliffe.  Again the directions to the crag wouldn't look out of place in a Tolkien novel 'at a bend in the path turn off by a tree with three trunks, next to a Yew tree and mossy boulders' - that could have been anywhere, but as luck would have it we ended up of the right path. 

Cautiously winding our way through moss covered boulders, under the canopy of damp dripping trees we found the crag.  Quickly we established what was what and where we had to be for a route.  It is difficult to get a good perspective of the crag, the trees covering most of the view.

We geared up and I led up Strike a HS 4b, a left hand crack up to a small ledge.  A the small ledge a traverse led to a roof, and a traverse back to the crack was required.  This presented some difficulty, so I down climbed and took the crack on direct.  This was described a 4c in the guide book.  The rock was drier above the trees and a view of the Wye valley opened up.  I continued up to a peg.  Welcome 'bomber' protection and a traverse left.  More crack climbing ensued until I reached the end of the climb; tat around a solid tree makred the end.  It was Nicola's turn to second and clear the protection I had placed.  I began to belay her and sahe climbed well until she reached a problem.  She called up she was unable to get over the difficult section.  So I lowered her down, pulled up the rope and set up an abseil with both ropes ties together; a reef knot backed up by a pair of fiehermans's bends.  I lowered my self off, stopping on my prussick knot to clear the protection off the route.  I got down safely.  Nicola was keen to get up something so we found a S 4a called Monsoon.

Again I led, and got to a stout oak tree and a ledge.  By now the ropes were dragging and it was difficult to communicate, so I decided to make a belay and bring Nicola up.  She raced up the crack system to my belay stance.  Here we swopped stances and she once again became the belayer.  I carried on up, the rock not beyond suspicion, some blocks moving as I looked for holds.  Higher up just as the guide book said the route got decidedly 'earthy' and there was the danger of slipping on the wet mud.  I made good use of the numerous tree roots, protecting by looping short slings around them.  Nicola came up and we tramped up into the woods picking up the faint path that led us back to the '365' steps.

We made the best of a inclement day and managed to get two routes in. We also recced a new crag and there is more routes to be down here at Wynd Cliffe.

Lee  

On Friday I left Newbury early to get to Betws y Coed in North Wales.  Upon arrival the area was windy but bathed in sunshine.  The start of a good weekend potentially.  Because I was on my own for the Friday I went to the Marin Trail to do some mountain biking. 

The Marin Trail is situated just out of Betws y Coed near to Trefrw.  From the car park there was a long climb up fire track which seemed to go on forever.  Having a full suspension bike doesn't make these ascents easy.  Finally there was a blue makrer post pointing to single track.  The nature of the Marin trail seems to be alot of ascent on fire track and slightly contrived single track.  Which is enjoyable but not long enough.  Some sections of single track were very rocky but straight forward.  I ended up on a descent on fire track over taking four other bikers.  This was high up above Swallow Falls.  This showed how long the Marin trail was and it seemed in places to go on forever.  There was a tight uphill corner and ascending up here was tough, single track was marked on the right hand side of this hill and I followed the arrow.  Crossing a bridge and looking up stone steps I wondered whether I'd gone the wrong way.  As there was no way I could climb them on the bike.  I carried the bike up and was relieved to see another blue marker post.  It was the right way.

The last section of the Marin trail was the best.  Like many other mountain bike routes, they leave you on a down hill 'high' and the descent back to the car on rock and tackling hairpin corners was sustained and fun.  I got back to the car in just under three hours of biking and no falling off! so it was a good afternoon spent on the bike.

I went to the PMC club cottage in Bethesda and met up with Steve Smith.  Both of us keen to get alot of rock climbing done this weekend.  The moring brought windy and wet weather coming in from the West.  So anything high in altitude of West facing was out for the day.  We went to Ogwen Cottage and made and assessment of the weather.  This literally comprised of getting out of the car being blown around and getting soaked.  'Holyhead Mountain' we both said to each other.  So we went over to Anglesey.  We drove over to South Stack parked the car, and got blown around with the gale force wind coming off the Irish sea.  We went over to Holy Head mountain and stayed in the Left hand section, picking out a small bay containing 'Laceration, New boots and Panties' and several other routes.  Only another team of three joined us and with plenty of routes to chose from in the bay didn't get in the way of each other.   I led three routes; the first was New Boots and Panties, the only route I'd heard on at Holyhead, this visit being my first time here.  NB and P was a Severe 4a and a single pitch (they are all sinlge pitch in the  bay) it was good fun and interesting.  The only problem I encountered was I didn't take enough quickdraws and was severely buffeted by the gale force wind at the crux near the finish.  The next route was Pleasant Surpirse as Hard Severe 4b.  this route was full of interest and comprised mainly of climbing a progressively narrowing crack.  The final route was Mrs Murdoch another Severe 4a this was a bit tough to get off the ground and was essentially a corner/crack problem.  There was the option of laybacking up the crack or using the arete of the corner, to make progress.  I moved fast up this problem until two thirds of the was up and as the crack seriously narrowed had to smear a fair bit up the facing wall.  The rock at Holy Head Mountain was full of interest with plenty of gear placements and good holds. As we descended down to our bags the weather seemed to get worse, the sky now darkened and the wind seemed to pick up even more, so we decided to leave Holyhead Mountain and get a cup of tea at the cliff side cafe.

I think we were lucky to have snatched three climbs in a dreadful weather weekend.  Though it's frustrating we can't get more done in this wet summer we are having.

With Steve Smith from PMC.   I headed for North Wales this weekend.   Typically it rained in Capel Curig as we looked out of the Pinnacle Cafe window. Betws y Coed was no different a bit of sun and plenty of the wet stuff.   So we decided to try a crag lower in altitude than those in the   Ogwen Valley   and Llanberis Pass, hoping that a lower more sheltered crag would miss the weather.

We ended up at the Moelwyns on Clogwyn yr  Oen.   It had been raining and now was showery with some sun.   The rock was wet in places and dark smears covered parts of the slabs.   There was also alot of quartz in the rock and when wet is very slippery.   We intended to climb Kirkus's Climb Direct (S/VD+) but another group asked us where it was and proceeded to gear up beneath the climb.   We weren't to bothered as there is plenty of routes to be had on Clogwyn yr Oen.   We opted for Slick (VD) which is about fifteen metres from Kirkus's Climb.   Steve led the first pitch and soon shouted down to me that he'd wished he hadn't left the large hex's in his pack.   Our packs we left under a large boulder a little away from the start of this climb.   The route is slabby and there are plenty of ledges to set up belay stances on.   He brought me up to a ledge and we swopped leads.   I was aiming for a healthy looking Rowan tree.   The rock is sound, plenty of pockets for holds and good protection can be had.   I got to the tree and next to it was a large flake with tat hanging off it.   I set up the belay and Steve came up.   Steve continued out of sight, after ascending a large slab.   He got to a rake and set up a belay, beneath a chimney.   I led us up the chimney.   It was an energetic start to get of the ground but easy, with plenty of foot and hand holds.   I carried on and set up a belay on a grassy ledge.   Steve came up and led the next pitch, he ended up topping out and brought me up.   Going left over a small bog we found the descent path and this took us below Kirkus's climb.

It had rained on and off during this climb and we sat in the rain eating our packed lunches.   After lunch we surveyed Slack (S) the neighbour of Slick some five metres or so to the right of Slick.   It looked very dark and slippery the slabs looked ok but the faces looked greasy.   So we opted for a lesser known V Diff called Chic, about five metres to the left of Slick.

We tested the rock above the belay stance and decided that in places it was dry enough to try the route.   I led the first pitch, it was easy on the sloping slab, but the angle increased and became more difficult as the rock face became steeper.   I got to a good belay stance and brought Steve up.   He led to the bottom of a long broken horizontal crack.   I led this and was able to use three cams in this crack until I got towards the end of the crack and was able to climb a thin crack up over a large blank slab to a belay stance.   Bringing Steve up I realised we were very close to where we had climbed on Slick.   Steve ended up climbing the same slab as he had done on Slick, but he didn't mind.   Again he set up the last belway.   Topping out this time we noted how windy it was, but the weather had improved. Making the crag and ideal evening venue, but we couldn't stay, which was a shame.

We'll definitely come to Clogwyn yr Oen again and aim to do Kirkus's Climb and Slack.   It was a good venue.

It's been a week since I've been back from Nepal.  I've been busy with TV, radio and newspapers.  All due to my successful summitting of Everest. I have been overwhelmed by the interest my Live Everest Dispatches have made.  I hope to put them all on a separate page on the website before long.

I haven't done any training since I've been back, but Callum Ings (NMC) and I managed to get a days climbing in this week as the forested crag called the Dewerstone in South West Devon.  I'd climbed there before and we managed to do the following routes:  Caesar's Nose (S), Pinnacle Chimney (VD) and Mucky Gully (VD).  All seemed high in the grades and we certainly appreciated climbing on granite is a wee bit different to the limestone we're used to in the Wye Valley and down at Swanage. Holds were good, but protection had to be hunted for, though when  found was generally solid.

With some much physical hardship being in the Himalayas for three months, I need to put some hours in back down the climbing wall.  This will help build muscle strength which I've lost and get my head back into the climbing game.

I look forward to writing the next dispatch.

Lee

My blog ends here and I will be sending regular dispatches via the Everest dispatch link.  To follow the dispatches please go to my home page, where you will see a Challenge Everest dispatch link.  Click it to subscribe via emails to free dispatches.

I decided to try and get some miles in.  So I chose the 70 mile long distance path called the Wayfarers Walk, which stretches the entire lenght of the county of Hampshire.

Nicola dropped me off in Portsmouth, and whilst I didn't start at the true beginning at the marina in Emsworth, I started at Portdown above Portsmouth.  With a 17 kilo pack, I made good progress on this first day covering around 22 miles.  I bivvied in a coppice for the night, then at dawn on the 4th March I continued.

This second day saw me covering the countryside up to Dummer near the M3 and crossing over the motorway to Deane.  I finally arrived at Watership Down above Kingslcere in the early evening, where Nicola picked me up.  This second day was about 24 miles long.  So in two days I covered 56 miles.

This was good training for carrying a pack over distance.

The training weekend tied in nicely with Newbury Mountain Club's Lake District weekend away.     Andy Miles and myself decided to do a multi pitch rock climbing route on Dow Crag.   We were staying in   Borrow Club hut near 'Copper Mines' high above Coniston and Dow Crag isn't far away.   Early on Saturday we walked from the hut to the crag, which took about 1.30 hours.   I was carrying alot of climbing hardware (Andy the ropes) my pack weighing around 20 kilos.  

The weather was poor, hill fog and patchy rain, the crags wet and slippery.   So we opted to attempt Giants Crawl on B Buttress a 'difficult' graded route.   We didn't bother with rock shoes, rather too wet for them, instead we climbed in our walking boots.   The route involves seven pitches and we alternated leading on these pitches.   It was difficult going because of the conditions; slippery, wet and cold. Running water on the rock seemed to be in every decent hand hold and soon our hands were numb with the cold.   Each pitch seemed to take forever and the belayer of each pitch soon got very cold.  

There was some interesting moves to be had, 'The Narrows' an airy challenge for me and the awkward chimney move on pitch 5,   one for Andy to swear at.   We topped out, and walked straight into gale force winds, quickly we got down the ridge and back to the unmade track high above Coniston.   We walked back to the club hut in the dark; the whole day door to door being   eleven hours long. We entered the hut with perfect timing: dinner was ready!

Saturday was great stamina training for the Himalayas, carrying that heavy pack and 'working' at climbing for around eight hours is good preparation for those steep ascents.

Sunday saw Andy and myself take on The North Face trail in Grizedale Forest on our mountain bikes.   A ten mile red grade route.   This took about 2.15 hours,   the single track sections were great fun, and the boardwalk sections really tested   balance with their adverse angled sections.   I was pleased neither of us had any mishaps on the route.   It was again good for stamina, but also a good CV workout, as there were several uphill sections which made the heart and lungs work hard.

Today Nicola and I did the Pen Y Fan circuit which I am getting to know rather well. We included Fan Y Big, so all in all just over 10 miles today.  Significantly, I carried a 17 kilo pack and we cleared Corn Du and Pen Y Fan in 50 minutes from the car, not stopping until descent the other side of Pen Y Fan. 

The pack weight, combined with the gusting winds made the circuit a good work out and I felt pretty strong until the last big ascent where I had to dig deep in the energy reserves and push through the fatigue. 

It was a good trainining session and Nicola was very strong on the mountain.

I drove up to Dolgellau in South Snowdonia, to meet my chums of Newbury Mountain Club.  Andy Miles had organised  the first club weekend of the year and sourced a very nice bunkhouse in the middle of the town.  I left Newbury at 5.30am and arrived a little after 9.00am.

We all hit the hill and despite the wet weather went up Cadair Idris, to begin with up the Pony path, breaking off to go up the Foxes path.  This was ideal for me as there is a long ascent on loose scree.  I powered up the scree and didn't really stop.  The stamina really improving in my legs.  On top of Cadair Idris, near to the summit is a small building, many years ago it used to be a sort of tea shop.  These days hikers are glad that it still has a roof on and is pretty much water tight, to escape from the pouring rain.  We had lunch in the building, went up to the summit trig point and then descended down the Pony path.  It was cold in the wind and rain and we all moved with intent down below the cloud base, to a well made path which eventually led back to the car park.

It was a good trip out, a shortish day, but a nice bit of intense training up the scree slope.

Today was a bigger day out.  I picked up Martin Joyce (Newbury Mountain Club) at 5.30am in Hungerford and we went to the Beacons.  Again we started at the Storey Arms and trucked on up to Corn Du.  The weather whilst colder than the other week meant that there were clear views ranging far into the town of Brecon and the countryside around.  We went over to Pen y Fan stopping for some hot tea and a few photos we went over to Cribyn.  The going was better than the other week and I was carrying a 10 kilo pack, which made the long ascents up to each summit a good work out. At Bwlch Neuadd, because the weather was so good and little wind we carried onto Fan y Big and beyond.  We eventually took a bearing and navigated over the featurless moorland to connect up with the plantation adjacent to the Neuadd reservoirs and hiked up to the escarpement terrace on the other side.  This is a long flat section and it eventually either continues back to Corn Du or as we did take a left turning to the well made descent path back to the first car park. From this car park it's a short walk back to the Storey Arms car park. 

It was a good yomp today and I certainly felt like I'd worked out.  I think we did around 8-10 miles today. The stamina seems to be getting better and I can only improve on today.

Today Nicola and I decided to have a 'no car' day.  From out hotel in Capel Curig we walked up along the A5 to a footpath that took us across wet moorland to the leat high above the A5.  Then descended down to Llyn Cowlyd reservoir.  We walked easily along the waters edge to the end with the dam.  We had lunch on the dam beneath a low wall which served as a good wind break, we traversed along the dam and onto a vague foot path to get into the planatation above Llyn Crafant (above Trefriw).  The conifer forest was incredibly wet under foot and we had to give alot of care to foot work in places, neither of us avoided the dreaded 'boot sinking in mud up past the top of the boot' steps.  Finally we were out of the planation and we traversed down to the house called Hendre and then along the small road which circuits the lake.  We went up a well worn track, climbing high to gain a pass in the cirque which would link us back to Capel Curig.  It had rained most of the day and now as we ascended it seemed to come in even more.  We entered the pass and carried on a very worn foot path traversing around some clearly boggy ground.  The horizon view seemed to become familiar with landmarks around Capel Curig coming into view, the base of Moel Siabod could be seen, the high part of the mountain shrouded in mist. 

Beneath us I could see we were behind buildings which fronted the A5, the youth hostel, Snowdon Cafe, and our hotel the Bryn Trych. We walked easily back to the hotel, wet in the rain and gald to dry off in the warmth of the public bar's fire.

Today contained little steep long ascents, but the distance and length of time carrying a load, has made up for the lack of ascent.

Today Nicola and I went to Snowdonia.  We decided to go to the summit of Snowdon, via the Watkin Path.  Some might say that this is not a demanding route up to the summit, but it's one I've never done and distance wise it helps build stamina from being out around 7-8 hours.  The Watkin Path is an interesting approach on easy paths and there is plenty of interesting things to see along the way; through the deciduous woodlands lower down at the start, through to the impressive waterfalls and various old mine working buildings.  There's also the Gladstone Rock with it's plaque.  We got to the summit of Snowdon and were hit by gusting winds and sleet.  We went to the trig point and observed the new building works of the centre at the end of the railway.  Because of the terrible weather, I got the group shelter out and we got inside, enjoying the break from the wind and sleet and had some food and hot drinks.  We decended of the ridge in part via the Ranger path and headed down to a col, joining the Watkin path again.

This was a new walk in bad weather and the training element was good as  felt that I could have repeated the walk again or at least carried on, I didn't feel tired. 

Today was an early start 5.00 am, to prepare kit, food and hot drinks for the day.  I went to the Brecon Beacons with Gareth King.  We started out from the Storey Arms Centre, up to Corn Du.  It was a cold and blustery day and the wind chill was significant.  We made good time and I felt pretty good.  When we got to the summit ridge the wind was gusting 40-50 mph, which made walking difficult. We carried ontoCribyn and  Peny Y Fan, my OS map showed there to be a trig point, but we couldn't see it.  We navigated off the ridge and dropped down to.  Making the decision that it was too windy to carry on the high ridge ground we went down to the Neuadd reservoirs. We had some lunch and hot tea and then climbed up to the return ridge, and then dropped down to the car park beneath the Storey Arms. 

The last time I did this route was eleven years ago and it was a good training route as there is long ascents and short descents ideally suited to saving the knees.   

Today, Nic and I got up early and had a simple breakfast of bread and jam (again!) and then packed out kit, in readiness to leave the Toubkal Refuge.  I found the guardian, Brahim and we settled our bill with him.  Luckily he gave me a half price discount for being in the BMC. 

As the sun began to warm the snow slopes in the Cwm, we left walking carefully on all the compact snow and ice on the path.  After about two and a half hours we arrived once again at Sidi Charamouch.  We looked in a couple of 'shops' and I ended up buying a Berber rug, apparently a hand made very good quality one, but of course aren't they all.  The shop owner and I haggled, he started at 8,000 dirams and I offered him 1,000, we ended up agreeing 1,000 dirams and a couple of Euros.  I also picked up a large geode with Amethyst crystal inside as well.  I put this in my pack and the shop owner carefully wrapped up the rug. I realised that I had to carry the geode and the rug, all the way to Imlil, so my pack got heavier!  

We left in good spirits and made our way past the vegetable and grass terraced plots, through the walnut trees and onto the dry river bed towards Armound.  Passing Armound we arrived at Imlil. Hungry, we found a decent cafe, that had several tajines slowly cooking the food inside over hot charcoal.  We ordered a tajine and some cokes and enjoyed watching the coming and goings of every day Imlil life.  Our taxi was on time at our meeting point, outside the French Alpine Club refuge of Imlil, it was good to be going back to Marrakesh, though we did have a great time in the mountains. 

I think it is a place we will come back to to explore futher mountains and their peaks.  Lee   

Today has been a great day, Nic felt better and well enough for a shot at the top.   We left the Refuge at 8.30 am and was on the summit for 11.30 am.   We took the same route, the South Cwm route which I soloed yesterday.   This is the easiest and most frequented way up the mountain.  

We took the ascent really slow and made sure we had plenty of rest stops.   When we got the the final Cwm it was really good to actually take the easier route to the summit rather than up the unending scree.   The easy route just continues to the sky line and then switchbacks hard left along the skyline crest of rock.   This mini arete provides dramatic views of the summit plateau and the huge drop off below.  

On the summit we took some good photos, now I had someone to take a picture, I climbed the metal pyramind structure on the summit, for a good photo, getting down was slightly more tricky than getting up!  

The weather was clearer today than yesterday.  The views spanned miles over the snow capped Altas mountains and beyond to the lower anti-Atlas mountain range.

Rested we descended the same route we came down and reached the refuge hut without mishap.   Our legs aching with a long descent, mine doubly so! we enjoyed the after glow of a successful summit attempt by the fire side in the lounge area.  Lee

7.00 am and I woke up ready fo action; we'd packed our bags yesterday in readiness for an early get away this morning. I nudged Nic, 'are you ready'? I asked, 'no I feel ill' she said. So I left on my own, I left the hut at around 7.30 am and trudged on the well worn path out of the hut over the river, and began the long snow plod up to the rocks on the sky line, the path was generally good, well won and compacted and it seemed to follow a line of least resistance against the gradient.  

Each time the rocks and boulders on the hoizon were met, this gave way to an new plateau area.   At 8.30 am I stopped for the first time to have breakfast and some water, this whole valley is a hanging valley and sheltered from the sun, so it felt quite cold, time to get going and keep moving.   Eventually it was clear that the last steep rise lead into the final valley.   After trudging up I hit a huge area devoid on snow, now my crampons grated against the pea sized scree.   I stopped took off my crampons, donned my sunglasses (I was now in the sun) and headed directly up the obvious red scree path to my left. Mistaka to maka!! this was really tough and very hard going, I found it easier to step kick in any patch of snow I encountered, than walk up the scree.   I looked down to see a group continue up to a higher path, this was obviously the hard way up on they were on the easy way up.   I knew I'd hit the 4,000 metre mark my body told me so; I don't know why this is the world over, less O2 I guess, I checked my altimeter to confirm this was the case;   the good thing being that meant only 167 metres to the summit.  

I hit the highest point on the horizon, and scrambled up some rocks to their top, below me was a huge drop, but I could see the summit triangle structure on the other side of this drop.   I skirted round and found a snow covered track which lead to the summit plateau, in a few minutes I was at the summit.   There was a Spanish couple there whom I recognised from the hut, we shook hands and congratulated each other.   The view on a clear day such as this, stretched for miles over the snow covered Atlas mountains and beyond.   It was awesome to at the highest point in North Africa, the highest point in Morocco, (4,167 metres)   and successfully make a solo, winter summit attempt (though of course I was only halfway - I still had to get down).

To go down after leaving the summit plateau I followed the reverse of the route which the  group that I had watched earlier take, they incidently were an English group who I did chat to on the summit, they were from Travel Bag.  This way down was alot easier on the legs and took advantage of the contours.  I quickly got to the point where I had to put my crampons back on and ice axe out just in case of a slip on the step ground.  I quickly retraced my way back to the last small plateau region above the hut and then 'gorilla walked' down the last snow slope near to the hut.  I cossed the river again and back to the hut for 1.40 pm, just in time for lunch with Nicola, who was feeling better.

Lee

This was the first day of our walking in he Toubkal region.  We started with a simple breakfast at about 7.30 am and then packed our day packs, just outside the front door of the hut we put on our crampons and got ice axes ready. 

Today was to be an acclimatisation day and if we were up to it then maybe an ascent of Ouanoukrim, the second highest mountain in Moroccoay 4,088 metres.  We walked from the hut heading up the valley, the hard packed sonw path winding over rises and cossing frozen streams, the sun was warm and there were now clouds, but always the icy wind.  We noted a path going of left and this clearly headed, zig zagging up to a high pass, I reckoned this went to Le Lac D'Ifini, which after I looked on the map in the refuge was indeed the case.  We carried on up to the pass known as Tizi - n' Ouagane at 3,750 metres, we'd ignored a path heading right off our earlier as it seemed to head into a couloir and we couln't see where this went;  this was actually a scramble approach route to Ouanoukrim.  At the pass we had lunch and decided that was enough for today.  We retraced our steps and headed back to he hut, on the we we found a lage bulbous lump of water ice, some twelve feet high, I decided to try and climb it, borowing Nic's axe, began to climb, kicking in my crampons and  getting holds with the axes.  It was difficult because the axe picks were quite blunt and of course being walking axes too long really for this type of work.  The ice was also very brittle and kept shattering; I got half way up and an axe came free and left me dangling in the air,  I decided this was enough of playing around, Nic thought it would make a good picture!

We went back to the hut and  settled down in the lounge by the log fire with some mint tea;  tomorrow would be our summit attempt on Toubkal.  Lee

This morning our taxi arrived and in the early morning we headed for the hill town of Imlil.  This was a short journey of around one hour.  Imlil is 17 Kms from Asni and has an altitude of 1,740 metres.  It has a variety of shops and stalls selling tourist souvenirs, the French Alpine Club refuge and there are several food shops.  We bought some fresh bread and a few other things for the next few days.  Imlil is the best place to arrange mules to carry loads up into the mountains.  We wanted to carry our loads but I think a mule would cost around 150 diarams. 

We walked up the steep and winding main street, I'd read that the path leading to the Toubkal National Park was left on a 180 degree bend in the road, we found this and so began our trek to the Toubkal refuge proper.  We walked up stone steps and then on to a winding switchback path which lead to the dirt road to Aroumd.  Aroumd is about 40 minutes from Imlil and has an altitude of 1,960 metres.  We didn't need to cross the river to the village, whose buildings seemed to cling to the hillside.  We continued passed and over a wide river bed to the same side of the valley as Aroumd. A sign here told us that we were now in the National Park.  Again we walked up undulating switchback paths and the heat of the day made carrying a pack hot work, maybe a mule wasn't such a bad idea.  We passed terraced field systems which must take advantage of the river run offs as they were the only green (grass) to be seen there were several walnut trees devoid of leaves because it is winter here in Morocco. 

Around a bend in the path and we came across a flock of goats and their shepherd, the goats bleating noisily as they searched the scree covered ground for anything edible.  We then spied up ahead a large white painted boulder, this boulder marks the shrine of Sidi Charmarouch and contains a small mosque; the altitude of Sidi Charamouch is 2,340 metres.  Aparently this village is a popular pilgrimage as the source of the stream is supposed to have healing powers, especially good for curing leg ailments!  We were met by several of the locals, keen for us to visit their shops or have a drink of mint tea or the universal Coke.  We decided that we should hire a porter to carry Nic's bag the rest of the wat, we agreed a price and the porter set of at a great pace up the switch back path, Nic now not laden down with a heavy pack, did the same and I was left behind to carry my lage pack, all good 'training' apparently.  At Sidi Charmarounch we encountered our first snow and ice; heavy and compacted on the path which made it difficult underfoot, a slip being treacherous.

For several hours I yomped on the path until I could see I was turning a corner in the valley, snow now all around and there was an icy blast of wind coming down this valley. The day began to turn to dusk and up ahead I could see the light of the refuge, showing the way.  There are two refuges, the first a privately owned enterpise, the second only some 25 yards further is the Fench Alpine Club of Morocco's hut; this was to be our base for the next four days. As I carefully picked my way through the snow to the door of the refuge, Nic was there to meet me, everything was sorted and clearly my reservation via email from the UK had worked, dinner was on the table.  I hurriedly unpacked my sleeping bag laid it out on the 'Alpine style' bunk, and went down stairs for dinner. 

The altitude of the hut is 3,207 metres. 

Dear Friends,

We have arrived safe and well in Marrakesh.  Nic and I were taken through the bustling streets and lanes of the Medina; the old walled part of the city, the wall being reputedly built around the 11th Century, and through tiny lanes, so narrow that our bags of kit have been taken by a chariot to the Riad.  The Riad is charming the architecture a blend of Moor and North African themes.  The Riad is a dwelling built around a central courtyard, four storeys high, with a sun terrace on the roof, the view over Marrakesh on towards the mountains. At the Riad we were met by the owner, a charming and well travelled lady, who gave us our first introduction to mint tea.  A drink which to me is bitter and sugar required to make it mote palatable.  Our room is delightful and looks our into the central courtyard area.

Marrakesh is real Arabian nights stuff, we went into the main square last night to eat, we tried eating from one of the many food stalls, which turned out to be really cheap about eight quid for both of us and the food was great, Tangine of vegetables and chicken, and kebabs, we also had olives and a spinach dish both were good.  We made the mistake of ordering snails from another stall a large bowl costing 10 dirams.  Nic didn`t eat hers and I struggled with mine, suffice to say I think they are an acquired taste.  Around the food stalls are magicians, acrobats, snake charmers, fortune tellers, dentists, dancing Barbary apes and henna tattooists, you`d think this was just for the tourists, but the crowds around seem to be made up of almost entirely locals. 

Several times a day there`s the call to prayer from many mosques, reminding us that this is a muslim country.  It didn`t wake me this morning becqause I think I was too tired from the travelling from yesterday morning.  Oh, and we can`t find anywhere to get a beer yet, another reminder.

The mountains look good, there is a good coating of snow on the higher peaks, which seems out of place in such a desert country as Morrocco. Though it is significant, the amount of snow means that we`ll have good conditions underfoot for our winter ascent.  I hope the weather stays the same, warm and dry. We have organised transportation with the taxi driver who picked us up from the airport.  He will take us to Imlil tomorrow, this will cost 600 dirams or about thirty five quid for a 65 km journey.  This seems OK as the internet information I looked at said 500 dirams and that was written about four years ago.

Today we packed our rucksacks, my sleeping bag seems to fill mine up, I think I`m packing around 20 kilos which is fine. We have also walked around Marrakesh, of course we got lost, but we were helped by a local dustbin man, who took us the long way round to where we wanted to go, of course for a good tip, or baksheesh as it is called in these parts. Speaking French really helps and we can make ourselves easily understood.  Morocco was a French colony (remember the film Cassablanca). 

Tonight, if we can find our way around we hope to go to a good restaurant with a belly dancing and dervish show. Tomorrow an early start to get to Imlil and start walking in the Mizane Valley, up to the French Alpine Club Hut of Toubkal. This should take anywhere between five and seven hours, going through the village of Aroumd and up through the valley, the club hut being our base to attempt Toubkal and some surrounding peaks over three days.

Next time I blog will bring news of our summit attempt, upon our return to Marrakesh.  Lee

As many friends and climbing buddies know, I have been busy organising things for the upcoming Everest Trip.  It really takes some doing! However along the way I have organised and will be leading a trip to Morocco to make a winter attempt on the highest mountain in the Atlas mountains and the highest mountain in North Africa  - Jebel Toubkal at 4,167 metres (13,671 feet). We leave the UK in early December 2007 for one week.

Toubkal is a mountain in the southwestern part of Morocco, located approximately 63 km south of Marrakesh.  We will be staying in a Riad (an old courtyard style house) in the old Medina part of Marrakech for the first few days. These first days will be busy, arranging transportation and buying fresh food and supplies. I hope we will have the time to go to Djeemaa El Fna, the large square in the Medina, where acrobats, fire eaters, fortune tellers and snake charmers abound. Also to visit the Souks, the area with metal workers, carpet makers and all manner of craftsmen.

From Marrakesh, we will travel to the village of Imlil about one hour's journey from Marrakesh.  From Imlil we trek to the Berber village of Aroumd past the small settlement of Sidi Chamharouch, into the Isougouane Valley to our base for the week; the French Alpine Club's Neltner Refuge at an altitude of 3,207m.  We will have a four day window of opportunity to attempt the south col route of approximately 960 metres to the summit plateau.  If we do this in good time and weather permits we will explore surrounding peaks of Toubkal.

I'll let you know how things progress when we are on the expedition.  Lee

 Place Djeemaa El Fna

The bustle of the souk

Nelter refuge

Summit of Toubkal